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2005 winner was certainly worthy of the top prize - here's what renowned beer writer Tim Hampson thought of it.
The Star is a great British pub that beats with a Spanish heart. It is a place
where cask ale meets Catalan cuisine as it is run by Spaniard Teresa Axon,
her husband Anthony and friendly hardworking staff who have come to this pub
from the four corners of the world. Situated on the B1016 about five miles
off the A14 between Newmarket and Bury St Edmunds, the bar chatter is often
about horses as the pub is in the heart of bloodstock country.
At the weekend it is common for three generations of a family to relax over
a Sunday lunch with the children eating what their parents and grandparents
eat, while young lovers stretch their weary limbs as they sip at glasses of
beer and read the Sunday papers.
Walkers too use the pub and they are encouraged to leave their vehicles in the car park, so that after a good lunch they can walk it off and perhaps return for another drink.
The menu says it as it is, even if some of it is in Spanish, a salad is a salad, a fish paella is just that.
But this simplicity of approach belies the sheer exuberance and quality of the food. This is proper food made with proper ingredients, the paella bursts with colour and flavour as the prawns, langoustines and mussels clamour for attention.
As I sipped my Abbott Ale, a rich and fruity beer, I realised it would have
been an equal companion to the shoulder of venison and lamb and garlic which
were also on the menu. And the puddings are to die for but don't tell your
doctor.
Small and cosy, the Star has a comfortable clutter of books and photos, it has
a dartboard and a bar billiard table. A roaring fire warms its three small
rooms, where diners and drinkers sit side by side. Children and well-behaved
dogs are welcomed and booking is advised. On special weekends, paella is served
in the garden and Flamenco dancers have been known to strut their stuff.
The Star is a fabulous pub. It sets fabulous standards, the beer is tremendous
and wine drinkers will not be disappointed. It has a relaxed but an unremitting
commitment to excellence, all of which is underpinned by the exuberant character
of the licensee Teresa Axon. It's just perfect.
The Street, Lidgate, Newmarket,
Suffolk,
CB8 9PP
Tel: 01638 500275
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Regional Winners 2005
Overall Winners 2006
Regional Winners 2006
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